Ahhh. Squash blossoms.

Living in Italy has its advantages, like being able to purchase squash blossoms at my local grocery store. On Saturday, returning to my stone farmhouse in Cortona with a small bundle of the delicate blossoms, I wondered how best to prepare them for Sunday dinner. (The blossoms refrigerate for a day when placed in a sealed container with damp paper towels.) Although the general consensus is to stuff and fry them, frying for just one person feels somewhat lonely. Friend and chef Stephan Pyles suggested a crab filling, but, alas, no crab in my refrigerator, and on Sunday, Tuscany was declared a Covid Red Zone with all travel (even to the grocery store) highly restricted. Since pasta is Italy’s national dish, and given my ingredients on hand, I created this fast, simple pasta, which may now become a treasured staple.

Squash Blossom Spaghetti

Serves 4 as a first course

9 to 12 squash blossoms
1/3 to 1/2 pound spaghetti
4 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 finely minced shallot, about 1/4 cup
fresh grated nutmeg, about 1/2 teaspoon
zest and juice from 1 lemon, divided
1/3 cup combined minced Italian parsley and basil
1/2 cup grated Parmesan or Romano cheese, divided
salt
pepper

1. After removing the stems and pistils (the inner nubs) from the squash blossoms, chop them, separating the thicker stem portion from the petals.

2. Bring a pot of water to boil. Add 2 tablespoons of coarse salt and spaghetti.

3. Melt butter and olive oil in a medium skillet. Add shallots, a pinch of salt, a grind of fresh pepper. Sauté over low heat for about 5 minutes. Add the stem portion of the squash blossoms, grate nutmeg over the skillet, and add lemon zest (not juice). Sauté gently while pasta cooks. About 2 minutes before the pasta is al dente, add the squash blossom petals to the skillet.

4. Drain pasta, reserving 1-1/2 cups of the cooking water. Return pasta to the cooking pot and add the squash blossom sauce, Italian parsley and basil, half the cheese, and enough of the cooking water to create a creamy sauce. Add lemon juice, toss, taste for salt and pepper. (Remember the pasta water is salty!) Plate and sprinkle with more cheese.