A meal to rejoice

My recent dinner at Ristorante Le Volte, located at Via dell’Orto, 5r, in Florence, Italy, reminded me of what goes into creating five-star food: Love.

Le Volte is a casual neighborhood spot, tucked onto an off-the-beaten-path street about a 10 minute walk from the Pitti Palace. Tables line the sidewalk, with a few inside the tiny, humble space. On a crowded night, chef Leonardo Lanini feeds 35 lucky guests. He works with two assistants out of a kitchen smaller than my pantry. They man their stations, barely able to turn around to work the grill and oven. The menu is small, select, and chosen for being able to be perfectly executed given the conditions. Every morsel of food is prepared with love and brimming with flavor. The big star is the Florentine steaks, cut ridiculously thick, perfectly seasoned, grilled rare and artfully sliced and arranged on a platter for the table to share. Having over-indulged in Florentine steak two days before, we opted for other items.

We began our feast with tomato-basil bruschetta and a gnoccho that rates as the best I have ever been served. Rather than the typical pile of little pasta pillows, this was one large gnoccho positioned on top of a tomato coulis plated to resemble a slice of beefsteak tomato. The coulis was creamy with a subtle medley of herbs accentuating the deep summer-tomato flavor. It played the supporting role perfectly, enhancing the velvety richness of the gnocchi. Saying it melted in my mouth does not begin to do it justice.

Leonardo’s momma makes the meatballs I ordered. She happened to be seated at the table beside us, with her husband, daughter-in-law, and adorable grandchild. The tender and succulent veal meatballs rested in a Béchamel sauce flavored with Parmesan. Each bite caused me to close my eyes and simply let the pleasure wash over me. I would be content to have these multiple times a week. They are that good.

Dessert—the best tiramisu ever, served in a glass jar—lived up to the preceding dishes. It was nearly impossible to wrestle the jar from my friend Lianne to have a taste. Thankfully we also ordered a decadent hazelnut, truffle bombe cloaked in chocolate. We considered licking the plate.

As marvelous as the food was (this was my favorite meal of many memorable ones this trip), it was the atmosphere and love that permeated the night. We smiled, conversed, felt our souls swell in the tranquil Florence evening. Leonardo loves his family, his customers, and his ability to make the world better through his gifts of food. His love radiates, and I feel so blessed to have basked in the glow. 

If you have only one dinner in Florence, book a table. If you have a few nights, consider booking for two of the nights.